Diamond Shapes Explained: Which One Fits Your Style?
Choosing a diamond isn’t just about size or sparkle. It’s about finding a shape that reflects your personality, lifestyle, and overall aesthetic. At Perry’s, we help customers every day discover the diamond shape that feels just right. To truly understand these shapes, it also helps to know where they came from. Many of today’s most popular cuts have rich histories filled with innovation, romance, and even a bit of legend.
A Brief History of Diamond Shapes
Diamond cutting has evolved over centuries. Early diamonds were worn in their natural crystal form, believed to hold protective or even mystical powers. As craftsmanship improved, cutters began shaping stones not just for durability, but for beauty and brilliance.
- 14th–17th Century: Early cuts like the point cut were thought to preserve the diamond’s natural “sacred” shape. Some believed altering a diamond too much would diminish its power.
- 1700s–1800s: Old mine and old European cuts emerged during a time when diamonds were cut by candlelight, giving them a softer, romantic glow that many collectors still love today.
- Early 1900s: Precision cutting and symmetry became the focus, ushering in cleaner, more geometric shapes.
- 1919: Marcel Tolkowsky used mathematics to unlock the full brilliance of diamonds, forever changing the industry.
- Modern Era: Today’s shapes blend history with technology, offering both meaning and performance.
Round Brilliant: Classic and Timeless
Origin: Perfected in 1919 by Marcel Tolkowsky
The round brilliant cut was designed using precise mathematical calculations to reflect the maximum amount of light. Tolkowsky, often called the father of modern diamond cutting, was part of a family of diamond cutters and sought to create the perfect sparkle.
Lore and Story:
This cut is often associated with “perfect love” because of its symmetry and balance. Over time, it became the standard for engagement rings, symbolizing completeness and eternity.
Best for:
- Traditional tastes
- Maximum sparkle
- A look that never goes out of style
Oval: Elegant with a Modern Twist
Origin: Developed in the 1960s by Lazare Kaplan
The oval cut was created as a way to modernize the round brilliant while offering a more unique silhouette.
Lore and Story:
Ovals are often associated with individuality and creativity. Because they deviate slightly from tradition, they have become a favorite among those who want something classic but not expected.
Best for:
- Modern romantics
- A larger-looking diamond per carat
- Soft, elongated elegance
Cushion: Vintage-Inspired Romance
Origin: Evolved from the old mine cut (1700s–1800s)
Cushion cuts date back centuries and were once the dominant diamond shape.
Lore and Story:
These diamonds were often worn by royalty and passed down through generations. Because of their antique origins, cushion cuts are often associated with heirlooms and enduring love stories.
Best for:
- Vintage lovers
- Romantic, soft shapes
- Timeless yet distinctive style
Princess: Bold and Contemporary
Origin: Created in the 1960s–1970s
The princess cut emerged during a time of modern design and innovation, offering a sharp, geometric alternative to traditional cuts.
Lore and Story:
Despite its modern origin, the name “princess” evokes royalty and elegance. It became especially popular in the late 20th century as a symbol of modern luxury and independence.
Best for:
- Contemporary style
- Clean, sharp lines
- Bold elegance
Emerald: Sophisticated and Understated
Origin: Developed for emerald gemstones, adapted for diamonds in the early 1900s
Emerald cuts were originally used for softer gemstones to prevent chipping, then later applied to diamonds.
Lore and Story:
This cut is often linked to old Hollywood glamour and icons who favored understated elegance. Its long, open facets were said to reveal the “true nature” of the stone, symbolizing honesty and clarity in a relationship.
Best for:
- Minimalist style
- Understated luxury
- Clean, architectural lines
Radiant: Sparkle Meets Structure
Origin: Invented in 1977 by Henry Grossbard
The radiant cut was designed to combine the best qualities of multiple shapes.
Lore and Story:
As one of the newest shapes, the radiant represents innovation and blending tradition with modern brilliance. It is often chosen by those who want the best of both worlds.
Best for:
- High sparkle
- Unique yet balanced design
- Modern versatility
Pear: Unique and Eye-Catching
Origin: Created in the 1400s by Lodewyk van Bercken
The pear shape is one of the oldest known diamond cuts.
Lore and Story:
Van Bercken also invented the diamond polishing wheel, revolutionizing cutting techniques. The pear shape has long symbolized tears of joy, making it a romantic and emotional choice for engagement rings.
Best for:
- Statement pieces
- Elegant elongation
- Unique style
Marquise: Dramatic and Regal
Origin: Commissioned in 18th-century France by King Louis XV
The marquise cut has one of the most famous origin stories in jewelry history.
Lore and Story:
King Louis XV is said to have commissioned the shape to resemble the lips of his mistress, Madame de Pompadour. Because of this, the marquise is often associated with passion, romance, and bold expression.
Best for:
- Vintage glamour
- Dramatic presence
- Maximizing visual size
Asscher: Art Deco Elegance
Origin: Created in 1902 by the Asscher brothers in Holland
The Asscher cut rose to popularity during the Art Deco movement.
Lore and Story:
The Asscher family was entrusted with cutting some of the most famous diamonds in history, including the Cullinan Diamond. This connection gives the shape a legacy tied to some of the world’s most important gems.
Best for:
- Geometric precision
- Vintage-inspired design
- Refined elegance
How to Choose the Right Shape
When selecting a diamond shape, consider:
- Your personal style: Classic, modern, vintage, or bold
- Your lifestyle: Active lifestyles may benefit from shapes with fewer sharp corners
- Finger shape: Elongated shapes like oval, pear, and marquise can create a slimming effect
- Setting preference: Some shapes pair better with certain bands or require custom design
Find Your Perfect Diamond at Perry’s
At Perry’s, we carry a wide selection of diamond shapes in 14k and 18k white and yellow gold settings, along with diamonds in every style. Whether you are drawn to the timeless brilliance of a round cut or the romantic story behind a marquise or cushion, we can help you find or custom create the perfect ring.
Your diamond should feel like you. Let us help you find the shape that tells your story.